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Bill Addison

restaurant critic, @latimes @latimesfood

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1.5K 24

hace 20 horas

The @latimes 2021 Restaurant of the Year is by @mignardisesla — whom a whole lot of you may know from her wonderful @porridgeandpuffs, even if you haven’t (yet) heard of her new project. Some thoughts pulled from the piece I wrote for @latimesfood : “When it comes to how people care professionally for others in restaurants, the English language fails us. I’ve never taken to the word ‘hospitality’: Enunciating it feels like chewing on a lump of gray steak and a jagged potato chip at the same time. It doesn’t convey the warmth and intuition of its most skillful practitioners. However it’s best expressed, the spirit of kindness animates Phenakite.” “What is the cuisine exactly? A label seems stifling. ... You’ll have to trust me when I say that it’s some of the freshest, smartest and most heartfelt cooking in Los Angeles and go experience it for yourself.” “Yes, there is porridge — a delicious variation that involves abalone — but the real heart of the evening is the moment when Phan comes to the table and sets up a swordfish course for each guest. Fig leaves charred with a blowtorch come into play, but what really matters is her presence. Her eyes dance and crinkle at the corners while she chats; you know she is smiling behind her mask. You feel connection, and your whole body remembers that restaurants are about so much more than consumption. And maybe, like me, you relax and feel hopeful in a way you haven’t for some time.”

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hace 4 días

Tacos al pastor, mulitas de carne asada, and birria de res at If you’re sticking to dining outdoors right now you are in luck: There is exactly one table outside. Thanks to @theglutster and @lataco for pointing the way to this taco stand’s newish brick-and-mortar location ...

2.5K 46

hace 6 días

The look on @samsanders ‘s face expresses everything I’ve missed about dining in Los Angeles restaurants. #latimesfood